How to Visit Bagni San Filippo: Guide to the Hidden Hot Springs in Tuscany
How to visit, what to expect and our best tips for the natural hot springs in southern Tuscany | Hi! We're Alex & Victoria - a digital nomad couple from Copenhagen escaping 9-5 to chase adventures in our beautiful world. Learn more about us here. |
Hot springs surrounded by forest
You’ve probably heard of the Instagram-famous Saturnia Hot Springs, but have you come across the more hidden hot springs known as Bagni San Filippo?
These beautiful thermal waters flow through a forested area.
While smaller than Saturnia, Bagni San Filippo offers a different kind of beauty — quieter and more peaceful, since it hasn’t yet drawn the same crowds.
We visited the open-air baths early one October morning during our trip through Tuscany and had the place almost to ourselves. It was a calm, magical experience.
If you’re looking for a tranquil soak surrounded by nature, Bagni San Filippo is definitely worth a visit.
In this guide to the Bagni San Filippo in Tuscany, we’ll cover everything you need to know, including why you should visit, how to get there, what to expect, where to stay nearby and our best tips for making the most of your visit.
Where to stay near the Bagni San Filippo:
- Bagni San Filippo – Quiet village right by the springs, ideal if you want to stay as close as possible.
- Radicofani – Small, charming town with a historic fortress and a peaceful atmosphere, only 15 minutes from the springs. This is where we stayed.
- Pienza – Scenic and lively hill town just 30 minutes away, great as a base for exploring the area.
- Siena – A larger, (stunning!) historic city with plenty of sights, restaurants and accommodation options, about 70 kilometres from the springs.
Table of contents
- What are the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs?
- Where are the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs?
- Why visit the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- How to visit the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- Practical information about the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- Our experience at the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- How to get to the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- How long to spend at the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- Best time to visit the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- Where to stay near the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- Our best tips for visiting the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
What are the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs?
The Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs are natural, open-air thermal pools hidden away in the forest.
They’re part of the Fosso Bianco stream winding through the trees. Here, you can enjoy a rustic yet peaceful and unique spa experience in the middle of nature.
The springs are known for their mineral-rich water, which comes out of the ground at about 48°C (118°F).
Varying in temperature, the pools are quite hot near the source at the top and cooler further downstream, so you can find a spot that suits you.
The water flows over limestone terraces, creating shallow pools that are easy to sit in and relax.
Balena Bianca (White Whale)
A prominent feature of the springs is the Balena Bianca, which translates to the White Whale.
This large calcium formation gets its name from its bright white colour and rounded shape, which somewhat resembles a whale rising from the forest floor. You’ll have to use your imagination.
As far as we know, walking on the formation isn’t allowed – and even if it were, it’s not a good idea.
The mineral deposits are soft and can be slippery, making it both unsafe and damaging to the natural structure.
Where are the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs?
The Bagni San Filippo hot springs are found just outside the small village of the same name in the province of Siena in southern Tuscany.
The main area of natural pools lies along a forested stream surrounded by limestone formations and trees.
Bagni San Filippo is about 70 kilometres south of Siena (~ 43 miles), 140 kilometres from Florence (~ 87 miles), and 190 kilometres from Rome (~ 118 miles).
Map of the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
Why visit the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
Visit the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs if you’re looking to try a natural, mineral-rich spa surrounded by an enchanting forest.
Not only do the hot springs form a series of beautifully milky blue, shallow pools and small cascades, but the forest setting makes the visit feel even more wild and peaceful.
Compared to the more famous Saturnia Hot Springs, Bagni San Filippo offers a quieter, more nature-focused experience.
It’s smaller and less accessible, which keeps the crowds away. In high season and on weekends, though, it can still feel busy because of the limited space.
The thermal water is naturally rich in minerals and is believed to help relax muscles, improve circulation, ease joint pain and benefit the skin.
But even if you’re not in it for the health benefits, soaking in warm water under the trees is simply calming.
It’s a beautiful stop for anyone travelling through central Italy or exploring Tuscany – especially if you enjoy being in nature and prefer a more low-key experience.
How to visit the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
Once you’ve parked (we’ll share more about that further down), head to the trail called Sentiero Fosso Bianco, which starts from the road Via Fosso Bianco.
This path leads directly to the hot springs – also known as Fosso Bianco, as you might have guessed.
It’s a fairly short walk to Balena Bianca (the White Whale) – the large, white calcium formation you’ll reach by following the stream downhill.
From there, you can venture on and find a suitable pool.
Be aware that the path is a bit uneven in places with some roots and mild slopes.
It can get muddy and slippery, especially after rain or when the area is busy. Wear sturdy shoes that can handle a bit of dirt.
Practical information about the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
Opening times
The Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs are open year-round, with no gates or official hours – meaning you can visit at any time.
Going early in the morning or the late afternoon/evening is best for a quieter soak.
Be cautious if you go in the dark, as the path and pools can be slippery, and the forest isn’t lit.
Price
Bagni San Filippo is free to visit – at least it was when we were there, and most people seem to access the area without paying.
That said, we’ve seen a few reviews mentioning a fee of 2 euros (~ 2.25 USD), though there doesn’t appear to be any official entry charge. Maybe it’s only in the high season.
If you’re asked to pay, be sure to get a ticket (or a bracelet), and feel free to let us know so we can keep this guide up to date.
Facilities
The site is completely natural and undeveloped with no amenities.
There are no toilets, changing rooms, storage for valuables or showers at the springs.
It’s therefore best to bring only what you need and leave valuables at home.
Most visitors change discreetly using a towel and rely on facilities in the nearby village if necessary.
There are restaurants, bars, small grocery shops and gelaterias in the town of Bagni San Filippo.
Red worms in the pools
You might see some tiny red worms in the natural pools at Bagni San Filippo.
They’re harmless and nothing to worry about – just part of the ecosystem in the warm, mineral-rich water.
Some people find them a bit off-putting, especially if you’re not expecting them, but they’re really small and easy to ignore once you’re in.
Just give your swimwear a quick check before leaving, so you don’t accidentally bring any home with you.
Sulphur in the water
The water at the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs has a noticeable sulphur smell, kind of like rotten eggs.
It’s mild, and you’ll probably stop noticing it after a few minutes, but it does linger.
Our swimwear held onto the smell for quite a while, so maybe don’t wear your favourite pieces.
If you’d rather not have your hair smelling like sulphur for days, it’s a good idea to keep it dry.
It’s also smart to take off any jewellery before getting in. The minerals in the water, especially the sulphur, can tarnish metal and damage certain materials over time.
Muddy and slippery
The hot springs are in a forested area, and the mix of thermal water and dirt often makes the ground muddy and slippery, especially when many people are moving between the pools and the path gets wet.
Tip: Avoid white shoes or anything that doesn’t handle mud well. Trainers or sandals you don’t mind getting dirty are a better choice.
Drones
Drones are allowed at the Bagni San Filippo – or at least they were when we visited. Just follow the general drone rules and be respectful.
Our experience at the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
We stayed overnight in the town of Radicofani (adlink) and left early in the morning to reach the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs around sunrise.
After parking, it only took us about five minutes on foot before we spotted the first pools between the trees.
Even with the sun rising, the forest was still quite dark at that hour because of the tall trees, which gave the whole place a quiet, slightly mysterious feeling.
The path was manageable, though we were careful around the roots and the slightly steeper bits.
Since there aren’t any changing facilities, we wore our swimwear under our clothes to make things easier.
We visited on a Tuesday in early October, and we were the first to arrive.
That made it feel even more peaceful and special, like we’d stumbled upon a hidden spot no one else knew about. We can definitely recommend waking up early for this!
We tried a few different pools and spent a while just soaking and enjoying the calm before anyone else showed up.
By the time we left, a handful of people had arrived – but it was nothing compared to the crowds at the Saturnia Hot Springs.
While Saturnia’s scale is more striking, we really loved the quieter, more low-key atmosphere at Bagni San Filippo.
It felt more like a natural spa hidden in the woods, which was exactly what we were hoping for.
Note: The pictures in this Bagni San Filippo guide were taken very early that autumn morning, which is why they look so serene and empty. If you’re visiting in high season or later in the day, it can be busier.
How to get to the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
It’s possible to visit Bagni San Filippo on a day trip from cities like Siena (~ 70 kilometres / 43 miles away), Florence (~ 140 kilometres / 87 miles away) or Rome (~ 190 kilometres / 118 miles away).
Keep in mind that arriving midday often means more visitors. For a quieter visit, it’s worth staying nearby and heading to the springs early in the morning.
Reaching Bagni San Filippo by public transport is possible, but not especially convenient.
Buses in the area can be infrequent and slow, and the last stretch may require a taxi. If you’re relying on public transport, it’s a good idea to ask for help with connections at your hotel or from locals.
Having a car makes the trip much easier – not only for getting to the springs but also for enjoying the scenic drives and small towns in the surrounding Tuscan countryside.
By car
Since the springs are in southern Tuscany’s countryside, having your own car really saves time and makes getting around much easier.
The town shares the same name as the hot springs – Bagni San Filippo – so when entering directions in Google Maps, make sure to search for Via Fosso Bianco (a one-way street) or Sentiero Fosso Bianco (the start of the trail).
That will take you to the correct road where you can park and access the trail to the hot springs.
Parking at the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
Paid parking is available along Via Fosso Bianco, just a short walk from the start of the trail to the springs.
These spots are marked with blue lines and cost 1.5 euros per hour (~ 1.7 USD). This is the closest and most convenient place to leave your car if you can find a spot.
If you’re looking for free parking, there are a few white-lined spaces further down the road, past the town of Bagni San Filippo – but they’re more limited and involve a longer walk.
Yellow lines indicate parking reserved for residents, so make sure to steer clear of those to avoid fines.
How long to spend at the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
Most visitors spend 1-2 hours at the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs – enough to relax in a few pools, take in the forest surroundings and snap a few photos.
There’s no set limit, so how long you stay really depends on how much you enjoy the water, the weather, and how crowded it feels. If you find a quiet, comfortable spot, you might end up staying longer.
On busier days, especially when the pools feel crowded, people often just take a short dip before heading out.
Best time to visit the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
The springs at Bagni San Filippo can be enjoyed year-round as the water stays at a constant warm temperature.
That being said, timing your visit well can make a big difference.
Time of the day
Weekdays are usually quieter than weekends, and early mornings are the calmest, especially if you arrive around sunrise like we did.
To avoid lots of people in our shots, most of the photos in this guide were taken right after sunrise on a Tuesday in the beginning of October.
Also, late afternoons are usually quieter than the middle of the day.
Since the hot springs are tucked away in the forest, there’s no clear view of the rising or setting sun – but the light filtering through the trees can still be beautiful.
Seasons
Spring and autumn are ideal if you want a balance of pleasant weather and fewer visitors. The cooler air and the mist rising from the warm water contribute to a calm, almost otherworldly atmosphere.
As mentioned, we visited in early October and found the temperature perfect – the water was lovely and the cool air wasn’t uncomfortable.
Summer tends to be busier, and though the pools are still warm, the heat might make a hot soak feel less appealing during the day. July and August are the busiest months.
Winter is the quietest time to visit.
You’ll want to bring warm layers for before and after your dip, but soaking in hot water while the air is cold can be a great experience, and you’re more likely to have the place to yourself.
No matter the season, it’s a good idea to check the weather forecast before your visit. The pools at Bagni San Filippo sit at the bottom of a valley. After rainstorms, water runoff can make the pools muddy and the paths especially slippery.
Where to stay near the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
You can, of course, stay in the village of Bagni San Filippo (adlink) itself, though it’s quite small and there isn’t much to do in the immediate area.
We stayed in Radicofani (adlink) for one night – mainly to visit the hot springs after a stop in Siena and before continuing south to the Saturnia Hot Springs (Cascate del Mulino). It’s a charming little town with an impressive old fortress.
Castiglione d’Orcia (adlink) is another nearby town that looks like a good option. It’s only a short drive from the springs.
We also really enjoyed visiting the beautiful town of Pienza (adlink), just 30 minutes away. It could easily work as a base if you’d like to stay somewhere scenic with a bit more going on.
If you prefer staying in a larger city with more accommodation options, restaurants and things to see, Siena (adlink) is your best bet. It’s a stunning city worth a few days on its own, and it’s located about 70 kilometres from the springs.
Our best tips for visiting the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
- Go early (or late) to avoid crowds. The hot springs can get busy during the day, especially on weekends and in high season.
- Check the local weather forecast. As the springs are outdoors, the weather can greatly affect your experience. Rain or cold weather might make the visit less comfortable, and the pools can get muddy if it has rained a lot before your visit.
- Bring swimwear and a towel. There are no changing facilities, so wearing your swimwear underneath your clothes helps.
- Avoid bringing valuables. There are no storage options, so keep things to a minimum and leave the rest at home.
- Wear sturdy shoes or sandals with a good grip that can handle mud and uneven terrain, as the trail can be slippery and rough in places.
- Consider wearing water shoes. The bottom of the pools can be slippery and uneven. We did fine being barefoot in the water, though.
- Don’t use soaps or shampoos. The hot springs are natural and protected, so keep them pristine by avoiding any soaps or oils.
- Use sun protection in summer, but avoid sunscreen before entering the natural springs – instead, wear a t-shirt or hat.
- Don’t climb on delicate formations like the Balena Bianca.
- Bring a good camera to capture the stunning surroundings. Here’s a guide to the gear we use.
- Carry a plastic bag for your wet, sulphur-smelling swimwear after your visit.
- Pack water and snacks. The warm water can be dehydrating, so bring drinking water with you.
- Be considerate to other visitors. Keep the noise down and take all litter with you.
- Remember travel insurance. Never travel without it!
Sustainable travel tips
To minimise your impact, follow these guidelines:
- Bring your own drinking water in a refillable bottle.
- Avoid single-use plastics.
- Dispose of waste properly.
- Respect the natural environment. Avoid using soaps or shampoos in the pools and don’t climb on Balena Bianca.
- Check your sunscreen (or even better, avoid it altogether in the water). Many brands contain oxybenzone and other chemicals that are harmful to the environment.
- Take only photos, leave only footprints.
Thanks for reading
Thanks for reading our travel guide to the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs. We hope it has been helpful!
What do you think about the shallow, blue pools in the Tuscan forest?
If you’ve been to the thermal baths, it would be awesome to hear your best tips and tricks.
If you haven’t been yet, please don’t hesitate to ask us anything in the comments. We’re glad to help.
Our favourite travel resources:
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- SafetyWing for travel insurance. We also like World Nomads and True Traveller. All three compared here.
Our camera gear:
- Panasonic GH5. Used for all of our photos and videos.
- DJI Mavic 2 Pro. Best drone out there!
- Sirui Tripod. Lightweight and strong.
- See all of our camera gear here.
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